“We were inspired by a sepia photograph of a woman from the 1930s and the shading on her face,” says makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury, who created the look for Donna Karan’s fall 2009 show, adding that the gray-brown image had the same tonality as Karan’s collection (“We didn’t want to do anything too graphic or too colorful”).To mimic the three-dimensional appearance of the sepia-toned headshot, Tilbury accentuated models’ cheekbones with a creamy, pale pink lipstick and framed eyes with M.A.C Cream Colour Base in Dusk and Root. A “plasticlike, wet, modern finish” came courtesy of gold-flecked black lip gloss for eyelids and pearlescent highlighter on cheeks and down the center of the nose.
Highlighter was also dusted on lips, over M.A.C Lipstick in Half ‘n Half and a layer of foundation: “The foundation dulls the lipstick down and makes it a little more neutral—I didn’t want any sheen,” says Tilbury. “Highlighter allows a little bit of light to come through and gives a soft, dreamy shimmer.”
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